Suddenly there I was, sweating on the F train in anticipation of the last stop. Not surprisingly, I’ve always wanted to go to Coney Island.
Coney Island bears the trademark signs of any seaside amusement spot : men looking ridiculous carrying oversized stuffed animals on their shoulders, the spoils of their conquests at knock ‘em down or shoot the freak, row upon row of identical stores selling postcards, beachwear, inflatable toys and sunscreen, people belonging nowhere selling their wares from makeshift tables set up along the sidewalk, colorful menus hand-painted on concrete walls listing overpriced soft serve and frozen drinks, paint fading in the thick salt air, arepas, gyros, funnel cake, mangos, bbq, caramel apples, cotton candy, whining kids, drunk men, and couples engaging in excessive PDAs. Then there’s me, and the rest who fly solo.
I bought a mango on a stick and sad on a bench to stare at the sea. It was peeled and sliced so that the layers of fruit resembled juicy petals. It was enough to share but I ate the entire thing myself.
Coney Island is like an old man who knows his best years are over. No matter how many flashy lights and glitzy rides you tack on, a sense of sadness pervades the place. I got all nostalgic for a time I never knew, say, when handsome sailors docked in NYC for 48 hrs and payed their respects to the ladies by taking them on the Ferris wheel before heading back to sea. Yet Coney Island is highly relevant. The clown from Steven King’s It, Pee Wee in his big top adventure, and a narrow media portrait of MJ the bizarro come to mind – people disturbing in the extent of their their torment, the perversity of artifice that masks an adult’s anger and pain with childlike innocence, misplaced talent curdling into garden variety freak show material, the rank smell of false happiness.
Still. I loved Coney Island despite her flaws. I felt we understood each other. She’s moody and tortured, and I…well, you get the point.
You go to place like Coney expecting to come out on top, but everything I’ve ever know about anticipating amusement from a place designed for it suggests the opposite: you let go of your balloon and the sky won’t give it back, you’re too short to ride the Cyclone, you’re looking forward to beating last year’s record in the bottle toss and you strike out with your first throws. Maybe they should just tear down the boardwalk and put up those condos. Squash any false hopes of returning to the way were (cue Barbara Streisand). Or maybe, just maybe, everyone should go alone, stare longingly at the sea and stop trying to make things anything other than what they already are.